We had some trouble with the Wii's wired sensor bar when playing on a projection television; even if the wire is long enough, you're left with the problem of having another wire to route around your furniture. Those without high-def projectors may scoff while explaining that this really isn't the sort of problem they would mind having but, nevertheless, we mind.
In the latest installment of DIY-erless -- our ongoing look at do-it-yourself wireless hacks -- we check out DoctaBu's guide for making your own wireless Wii sensor bar. Of course, we know that it's not really a "sensor" bar but a pair of infrared sources that the Wii-mote uses to triangulate the cursor's position. Using a perfboard, some IR LEDs, some wire, and four AA batteries, one can easily create their own projector-friendly Wii sensor bar.
Sure, you could always wait for that rumored retail solution, but wouldn't you rather make your own to match those homemade Wii component cables you've got rigged up. Check out a video of the process after the break.
[Thanks, Jonathan]
(Page 1) Reader Comments
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It's just seeing 2 dots.
So basically, if the Wii-mote sees the 2 dots to right, it knows it's pointing to the left (because it's a mirror image). If the 2 dots are close together (tiny image), it knows it's farther from the screen. If the 2 dots are farther apart (zoomed in), then it knows it's closer to the screen.
It's elegant, and simple, but it's not triangulation.
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You can't just hook up LEDs directly to a battery the way you might hook up a light bulb. Each LED has a preferred voltage (referred to as "forward voltage"). Any less and it won't light up, and more and it's lifespan is greatly reduced and they will quickly burn out. To get around this problem, you need to put a resistor in series with the LEDs (referred to as a "current limiting resistor"). 100 ohms is a decent value for two LEDs in series. You can't leave out the resistor. It's vital for the life of the LEDs. Also, you can't put the LEDs in backwards, they only work in one direction. I usually look for a little notch at the base of the LED, which indicates which side is negative.
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(270-401) from Radioshack. I attached two LEDs to each battery holder
in parallel. I can adjust the distance between each self contained IR
emitter depending on the size of the TV. (I have a 13' wide front
projector and with approx three feet between them, I can stand about
15 feet back.) Simple, easy, and costs $12.Not having a soldering
iron handy, I used crimp on telephone connectors (64-3073) by
sticking two LED ends in one side and a battery lead in the other
then crimp with pliars. Be sure to either install a switch or pull
the battery out when not in use!
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What of games like Excite Truck where your hand would block the sensor on the front?
If you point it backwards (imagine a full bat or racket swing) does it lose track until it comes back into view?
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I'm sure this is gonna get answered before me, but from I have seen, I believe Excite Truck merely relies on the accelerometer within the Wii-mote to steer the truck as opposed to pointing the correct direction. Very similar to the Sixaxis and how it might control in a racing game.
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Errrrr that IS triangulation though, isn't it?
The process of determining your location given two other points of known distance and position?
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i know I'm a little late in posting, but i have a few questions. I've just been watching the hl2 wiimote mod, and i would like to built a sensor bar for my 19" LCD monitor, but i also dont want to have to sit miles away from the monitor to have it work.
So, heres my queries, i hope someone might know the answer, and in turn, help anyone else looking to do this:
1st: Is there some way to make it accurate at closer ranges, i.e. space the leds specially, add more leds, or make it the actual length of my monitor.
2nd: Will adding more leds make it more sensitive. It would be especially cool if it could be really accurate...
Thanks for any help,
D
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