DIY-erless Wii sensor bar (9V battery edition)
Forget about our earlier installment of DIY-erless where we encouraged you to use perforated boards, light-emitting diodes, and a fusible metal alloy to recreate the functionality of the Wii's currently wired "sensor" bar. Forget about the video where we (perhaps irresponsibly) showed you how to use candles to duplicate the "sensor" bar's functionality (note: Joystiq is not responsible for any damage to your slacks, your brand-new plasma television, or your long-haired pets and/or relatives). Instead, about $8 worth of materials from the local Transistor Hut should be all you need to make that "sensor" bar easily portable -- not to be confused with potable (note: Joystiq is not responsible for you trying to drink your video game accessory). Here's what you need to pick up:
- 9V battery snap connectors: $1.99 (#270-325)
- Crimp-on connectors, ie: butt connectors *snicker*: $1.99 (#64-3073)
- 9V alkaline battery: $3.49 (#23-875)
- Wii sensor bar (in case you trash yours or want a spare): $10
[Via Engadget]
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
BlindsideDork @ Dec 1st 2006 9:48AM
So you can either plug it into your Wii using the wire or us a 9Volt battery to power it...I suppose this would be good if your tv screen/projector screen was too far away for the cord to reach but then you have to waste money on 9 Volt batteries, how long does one stay functional before you have to change it?
Seems pretty pointless...
PS: You haters migh tmention the Wiimote battery issue but I didn't have to change my batteries for 30 hours and I have rechargeable batteries now so that works out well.
Xaijin @ Dec 1st 2006 9:52AM
Jeez... people sure do love batteries :/
Who's going to be the first to actually make a wall socket power cord sensor bar?
crono141 @ Dec 1st 2006 9:52AM
I still like the idea of wiring it strait to your TV better.
BTW. I built mine using a 2-1/2" x 9" x 1/4" piece of plywood, 2 IR LED emmitters, a 2 AA battery holder with 9V like connector, a switch, and some wire.
I hot glued everything in place on the plywood with the LED 7-1/2" apart centered about the switch in the middle. I put the battery holder just behind the switch in the middle and ran everything in series. A few hot glue beads on the wires for neatness and I was done.
Didn't work at first. Turns out I wired the LED backwards, so I flipped by batteries around and viola!
Its ugly as sin though, but its one less part I have to move when I transport my Wii to parents house on christmas.
BTW, I have no idea how long the batteries will last.
MookieFL @ Dec 1st 2006 10:07AM
Can someone explain the need for all these DIY sensor bars to me?
WraithLord81 @ Dec 1st 2006 10:15AM
Let me go off topic for a bit, do you know how much prot...Sorry, but on a serious note this is a little off topic, but not by much. It is a Nintendo Mod, but of the 1980's variety. Check it out, let me know what you think.
Pics/Walkthru here(better if you flip thru manually so as to see the embedded tips):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/66652920@N00/sets/72157594397639279/
Full vid here:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2644968889169102652&q=jnesi&hl=en
Later
blot @ Dec 1st 2006 10:17AM
MookieFL,
Not everyone who owns a Wii will have the console within reach of their display. Most often this is the case with front projectors.
crono141 @ Dec 1st 2006 10:24AM
Fun?
Grog @ Dec 1st 2006 10:32AM
The need is simple: the connection from the sensor bar to the Wii is something like 100 inches. If the distance from the Wii to where you WANT to put your sensor bar (for example, if you have a projector and the Wii in the back of your room but want the sensor mounted up front), you have to find some way to extend the reach of the cable or remove its necessity.
Enter the new wireless sensor bars.
MookieFL @ Dec 1st 2006 10:38AM
Ah, I see. Thanks, blot.
I was thinking of getting a Wii, but I didn't want to have to turn into Norm Abrams to use it...
RH3D @ Dec 1st 2006 11:22AM
Hmm, a 9volt battery... The sensor bar uses 12.6 volts at 120ma containing 10 IR emitting Diodes. I wonder how well the 9volt battery works and how long it lasts? I dout you'll wreck anything by using a 9volt bat but I'm sure they won't be as bright!
If you have a projector I would recommend extending the cable, just use the same gauge wire and soldier / shrink wrap your conections and run the wire with your Front speakers.
JJ @ Dec 1st 2006 11:26AM
Just a bit of insight; the sensor bar doesn't have to be directly under or even near the TV. I have a front projector and I just place my sensor bar on a chair that sits in front of me. It even faces my direction in order to make triangulation easier. This modification is only needed if you need more space in front of you than the wire permits. Of course it is most likely ideal to keep the sensor bar out of the way. I am hoping on plugging a 9V transformer plug into the sensor bar so I have no extra wire going around the room.
syco @ Dec 1st 2006 11:49PM
I used to work at Radio Shack.
If you walk into a radio shack and try to purchase $8 worth of stuff you are really asking to be pushed a Cell Phone or something. We have $/ticket statistics we have to keep up.
:|
syco @ Dec 1st 2006 11:51PM
In other words I'm suggesting you buy this stuff online...
Unless of course you really do need a new Cell Phone :)
cahrdr @ Dec 2nd 2006 9:10AM
I posted this a little late in the earlier wireless sensor bar post, but here it goes.
What I did was buy four IR LEDs (276-143) and two single AA holders(270-401) from Radioshack. I attached two LEDs to each battery holder in parallel.
By having two seperate units, I can adjust the distance between each self contained IR emitter depending on the size of the TV. (I have a 13' wide front projector and with approx three feet between them, I can stand bout 15 feet back.)
Simple, easy, and costs $12. Not having a soldering iron handy, I used crimp on telephone connectors (64-3073) by sticking two LED ends in one side and a battery lead in the other then crimp with pliars. Be sure to either install a switch or pull the battery out when not in use!
For those that aren't real familiar with LEDs, the longer lead of the LEDs connects to the positive wire (red) from the battery holder.
The LEDs are rated for 1.2v with a max 1.5v, so these actually work most efficiently with rechargable batteries, due to their lower voltage.